The Back Lane

It's the school holiday. Bumi Bertuah is awfully quiet these recent weeks ever since the holiday season started. Many folks are heading in droves to neighbouring towns to enjoy the year-end break and spend good times with families.

As usual the "visit our country" or KKK campaign seems more of an afterthought and not charming enough. And yet there are so many eco- or heritage sites here that could be turned into attractive locations to visit, if only the infrastructures are properly set up along with some sleek promotions.

One of those places is the place that I enjoy and frequented every weekend. Bukit Shahbandar is an idealic area for trekking, eco tours and setting up of chalets, mini shops and restaurants if one were to think big. These would be the normal set-up for similar spots in many countries.

On a different note, I knew there are many different trekking routes in Bukit Shahbandar but I have never ventured out beyond the normal 9-hills circuit and to try the back lane. Last Saturday I was invited for the umpteenth times to join other trekkers on the longer route. And for the umpteenth time again I politely declined because I wanted to stick to my normal schedule.

But suddenly it hit my mind the next day, after a year running around here I realised I have never ventured beyond what I know of the place. So there I was on my own, following my instinct to try out the lesser known trail. The route was surprisingly well set-up, quite challenging, and took about 45-50 minutes when running or up to 1.5 hours if one is just strolling.

There are no map board along the trail although plenty of signs could be found showing the directions. A few more simple things like the map board and proper resting places would help to spice up the place and hopefully prevent from people getting lost here which is becoming unfortunately a weekly event.

There must be more than ten peaks to climb with the higher peaks having assigned names. There are also a couple of wooden bridges crossing small streams and three real steep climbs to make the heart really beating hard. This route is now becoming my new routine. The entire circuit takes about 2 hours to complete.

Two Cities in One Night

A quick stop-over in Kuching, the last time I set foot here was 33 years ago. Although only an hour flight away there is nothing really hitting me to visit this place over those years.

One might say the same can be said for Bumi Bertuah for outsiders. So only if there are real attractions or purpose, then tourist will be hoarding in numbers.

Then hopped on the connecting flight to a familiar ground - Singapore. The place seemed to be at this time of the year in a festive mood. Decorative lights are everywhere, meant to make the place appealing and lively to tourists and shoppers alike. In fact nowadays there seemed to be more foreign faces than locals, especially in the business district. It is estimated that about one to two million out of the five million population here are foreigners!

Selamat Tahun Baru Hijrah

A simple message from all of us -

Selamat Tahun Baru Hijrah 1432. Semoga tahun baru ini memberi keberkatan dan dimurahkan rezki kepada kita semua.

A Journey Up River

Made a trip up the Belait River recently. One of the highlight was to see this sleepy crocodile who seemed to be enjoying the limelight of being photographed and talked about. The sight of this creature not too far from human dwellings was a gentle reminder that we are living very close to wild animal habitats. And so due respect and precaution need to be taken especially when one is going up and about on the river. In recent times there have been a number of fatal attacks by these creatures, but then this is their home and hunting ground.

The trip up the river was amazing. The sight of endless mangrove trees lining the river bank, singing birds passing by and watching slowly moving murky water of Belait river make this place tranquil and a very relaxing place.

The year 2010 is a year to remember for many of us. There are so many happenings, a good share of ups and downs. Just as we are having fun, the new year beckons. Wonder what 2011 awaits us.

Wading through the Flood

Today was an early start for the weekend ritual morning run at Bukit Shahbandar. I knew the Bukit Shahbandar challenge was happening today but I wasn't expecting the crowd to be already quite thick at 6.10 am. So there I was, one of those little people, had to park my car quite a distance away along the highway.

The run was only starting at 7 am, I decided it wasn't worth a wait and started my own run rather been intimidated by a crowd of non-seasonal runners. As I did my second round I got myself in the mix of the those runners. So there I was, unofficially participating in the Bukit Shahbandar challenge.

Later in the morning, I brought the kids to see the flood in Ulu Tutong. I was telling the kids that I used to walk and wade the flood for miles and miles when I was a kid in order to reach my grandparent's house. But the kids weren't interested to know. The road trip through the flood is like a joy ride for them, watching brownish water all around whilst staying dry and cool inside a 4WD.

The flood in the Ulu area this time around has been quite persistent. Even though there were hardly any rains, but apparently because of the high tide and more intense rains in the interiors, the flooding hardly ever receded for days and weeks and is becoming an acceptance in life for those people affected.

The roads are at least still accessible as most have been sufficiently elevated quite a while ago. Nonetheless the police posted an observation post as part of the main road to Lamunin seems to be flooded more severely than others.

Preserving Culture Through `Rediscover Brunei Race'

Bandar Seri Begawan - Twenty-one teams consisting of 63 participants from Sixth Form Centres and Jerudong International School put their wits and physical endurance to the test in the Rediscover Brunei Race 2010 held at Maktab Sains Paduka Seri Begawan Sultan.

The second place winners, Group `Nangka' from Jerudong International School comprising Farah Azyan binti ali Umar Safri,19, Nur Ahlina Haziqah binti haji Hamdani,18 and Hafizah binti Haji Azhar,17, said that they were surprised to have done so well at the event. They said that this was their first time participating in such an event. "It was great, we had fun, we had to think really hard on each challenge. The kite-making under the hot sun tested us physically and the ketupat-making needed a lot of concentration." They said they had very little preparation and were very intimidated going into the race but had lots of fun and learnt a lot from the experience.

Borneo Bulletin.

Day of Sacrifice

A busy day for the villagers, in a communion, to prepare the slaughter of seven buffaloes and distribute the meat to the needy and the volunteers. That took place in our mosque today to mark the Hari Raya Aidil Adha, a very auspicious day once in a year where it seems everybody, young and old, would come and converse to the mosque to give a helping hand.

And across the countries, in probably a hundred locations, the rituals are repeated.

To all Muslims, we wish a "Selamat Hari Raya Aidi Adha" to all.

Once a Fishing Village

I am quite impressed with what I saw of Oman even though only from a short span of a few days. From the moment of driving along the 3-lane Sultan Qaboos Highway to the cleanliness and well organised city and urban areas, this place has taken itself very well.

The Sultan Qaboos Highway is top notch, with maximum speed limit of 120 Km/hr, reminds me of the great motorway network in Europe. This highway serves as the main artery of Muscat, linking it with other regions but also between the suburbs of Muscat.

A cursory glance at the road traffic during peak hours provides enough proof about the increasing volume of traffic on this highway. Still, I must say, Muscat is a better city to drive than many cities in the world. As with other aspect of infrastructure and nation building, the country could not be accused of being caught napping. It has taken a prudent start of planning for the future.

Downtown Muscat

Today was about having a wander downtown. I wasn't planning to do a whirlwind tour of the whole Muscat as I only got the morning before catching the flight home. Having a look through the taxi's window was already good enough to give a good first hand impression of the place. I made a stop at the Muttrah Souq, a small souq with its own unique characters.

The most evident character is the smell and burning of frankincense and perfume oils. There seems to be plenty here and the prices are quite

cheap. The other interesting aspect of the souq is the displays of Omani silvers, pots, paintings, hookah pipes and framed knives. One could also find many stalls selling gleaming white dishdashas and embroidery. Overall a very fascinating place. Of course for size, the Al-Hamidiah Souq in Syria and the Grand Souq in Istanbul are much larger and got more variety.

On the way back while stopping over at a supermarket to buy some dates, I was startled when a familiar face spoke to me from behind. He was a fellow Bruneian who lives here. Apparently the 20 or so Bruneian families here are having a function at the nearby Ambassador's resident.

As for the Eid next week they are sacrificing a number of cows and a handful of goats - that's a lot and definitely need a lot of help. But that is not a real issue as there is a very close-knitted Bruneian community here. As for the experience of living in this place, those that have or are currently here got nothing but real praise and enjoyment of this place, some even contemplated to continue working for a number of years or even forming own company here.

A Fort in an Oasis

On the way back to Muscat, we stopped over at a small town called Nakhal and had a touristic diversion to our programme.

Standing on top of a small mount is a fort that has been re-furbished quite recently. Apparently this is a popular spot for tourists as it is the most prominent and historical structure in the area.

Originally the Nakhal Fort was built in the 17th century and was the base of one of the more re-known and powerful tribe and at that time was considered a real fortress. And standing on top of the fort offers splendid and panoramic view of the surrounding oasis and section of the nearby mountains.

The greenery of the area is such a big contrast to most part of Northern Oman. There seems to be endless stretch of date palms surrounding the fort. These are only possible because the place is sitting at the mouth of the incoming wadis which obviously carry plenty of water above and below the surface.

Desert Tent

What a great hospitality awaiting our group, in the middle of nowhere was a big tent set up to serve us a hearty lunch. After the whole morning roaming around like a headless chicken in the shadows of big rocks, there is nothing better than to have a traditional Arabian meal and coffee.

The great danger in such a dry land is dehydration. One need to continually replenish the body with fluid and drink plenty of water. Today was not that hot in the mountain and wadis. Imagine being here in the middle of hot summer where temperature easily exceeds 45 Deg C.

Back in Time - 700 Million Years

Today we drove some 200 km westward towards the mountains, along well-built roads deep into the interior and finally along dry river beds or the wadis. It is clear that the government has poured a lot of money on building infrastructure such as raised roads from the flood prone wadis and encouraging more of the population to settle far from the urban areas and make the areas here and on the outskirts of the mountains their homes. And yet without any obvious employment and visible farm land, one would question how sustainable is the scheme.

From the coast, the Omani mountains dominate the skyline of Muscat and the northern coastal strip, reaching to 3000 meter in height. Here in the higher altitudes the weather can be quite cold and windy. The mountains are cut through by many wadis and only approachable by 4WDs. The wadis are currently dry. There has not been much rain in recent years. However, there are still occasional floods especially during the wintry months when rain water from the mountains would rush with ferocious force carrying stones and rubbles down the wadis. One has to be aware of this danger as sudden flash floods might be triggered by heavy rains far away in the upper reaches of the mountains without one realising it.

Today was about looking at the rocks. Here some of the oldest rocks could be found, as old as 700 million years old. As we progressed and discussed through the rock sequence, the whole things came back rushing in my head, after all I spent three years in my previous job studying similar rocks.

Jewel of the Persian Gulf

Now and towards the end of the year is probably the best time to visit the place because of the pleasant weather.

The place is well developed, sustained by the huge amount oil produced but more importantly helped by a forward thinking leadership.

The place I stayed, Grand Hyatt, is quite a place if that is not an understatement. Similar in a way to the Empire hotel, its 280 rooms are mostly outlandish in size. The place was full helped by the over 100-strong Chinese delegation staying over as part of the Chinese vice president entourage.

I have not had the chance to venture anyway beyond the hotel parameters yet for the last three days but looking forward for venture out once normal business is done.

I had the chance to have dinner with an Omani friend whom I used to work together with and last saw him 6 years ago. Indeed as he said things are more liberal here than some would like it to be. It seems that the whole place in the Persian Gulf are competing against each other for tourism that clubs and bars are becoming common sights.

Heading Westwards

On the road again. Arrived in Dubai or sometimes known as the Oasis City of the Persian Gulf at unearthly time of 2 am in the morning after what seemed to be an hour of waiting and circulating around in the sky before the plane was allowed to land. The airport although large and ultramodern is not really user

friendly, requiring long walk, is cramped and lacking real concept. The sights are also quite mixed. There are many transit passengers sleeping on the carpet floor which does not jive with the flashy surrounding. Nonetheless the temperature has been kind, at 26 Deg. C is a far cry from the last time when I was here in the middle of a hot summer when the temperature was beyond 45 Deg. C.

Got on a flight for the next leg to reach Oman. This is my first time ever to the city of Muscat, a place where many of our countrymen called their second home, some are even working full time for a few years now. Such is the maturity and capability reached by our countrymen that many are able to work internationally. The next few days though I won't be able to explore beyond the walking reaches of my hotel. But really looking forward towards the end of the week when I will be going off to the mountains.

Seeking the Blessing of Al-Mighty

Last night was something special. I was in the midst of ninety seven extraordinary students who are stuying at the Tahfiz Institute. After Maghrib prayer, a short speech by yours trully regarding the purpose of the event, a hajat prayer, then it was reading of the whole Qur'an in three groups to make three khatams in all.

Indeed as a new project is being embarked, I sincerely wish that the outcome will be positive and that it will bring new sustenance to our beloved land, Bumi Berkat, Bumi Bertuah, Brunei Darussalam.

“Ya Allah, jika rezeki kami di atas langit,
Engkau turunkanlah;
Jika dibumi, Engkau keluarkanlah;
Jika jauh, Engkau dekatkanlah;
dan jika sedikit Engkau banyakkanlah”

Amin Ya Rabbal Alamin.

The Hand that Feeds

It's the weekend, time to loosen up the legs. Nowadays the idea of being just lazy and waking up late during weekend is becoming far from every one's mind. When I started my run this morning at Bukit Shahbandar at 6.20 am, I saw several people were already coming out of the hills.....boy...were they early!

This week I could only trudge the hills slowly, may be the body is still feeling the strain after donating blood last week. That was my 25th. I was given a restraining order - to stop any form of heavy exercise for the next immediate period. A week passed I wasn't conforming to say the least, I did five rounds on the hills.

I must say living in Bumi Bertuah is a real blessing for everyones. Rich in its natural beauty and resources, people in this land are luckier than most part of the world. However we need to be cautious and be prepared for the future. Lately there are increasing occasions in Bumi Bertuah where social welfare has blown to a different level, that the nation is now like running a big charity organisation. To the point that many only know what's next to receive than to give. However, as Bumi Bertuah is in a critical stage of nation and infrastructure building, its capacity to deliver all these social services and maintain its welfare status is unsustainable in the long run. You should never bite the hand that feeds you.

Tears in My Eyes

Almost a week has gone. One thing that still reverberate in my head is the image of a little boy we met on the way to Ghandruk. It was the encounter that still has deep impact on yours truly and saddens the heart. The boy living only with his mother in a small shack, without any of the modern amenities that we take for granted nowadays, feeling contented with his fate, born poor, and is living on what ever the day and night will bring little food and comfort to him and his mother. That little shack is his home, his bed, his kitchen and precious little space to protect the family from the element.

Quite different from the have-nots in our country who could still seek help from the caring system and the various organisations that are presence here. Let alone us who never felt such hardship and helplessness. The little boy must have felt trapped in a hopeless despairing situation. If anything that I learnt from the journey is the need to always bring myself back down-to-earth, to be contented with whatever I have and to show more humility, compassion and care for our fellow human race.

NEPAL - Never Ending Peace And Love

We will be flying out from Kathmandu airport tomorrow to finally close the final chapter of our adventure. We set off a couple of weeks ago on a journey to an unknown. We followed a well-proven trekking route to see and appreciate mother's nature and its beauty at its best, to breath fresh mountain air, to feel and be freshen up by the cold water from gushing streams and waterfalls, to feel like a small boy when crossing the many suspension bridges, to feel like a real man when climbing up thousands of steps up the mountain, but above all to feel humble and human again when walking in the shadows of the Annapurna mountains. We learnt a lot about the Nepalese people and their culture, indeed they are very respectful people. Even though life is definitely hard here but the people are still willing to break into a smile to us.

The trekking itself was quite hard and very challenging. But we managed to push ourselves up to 8 hours on certain days to reach our destinations. The end was quite satisfying, to be on top of the Poon Hill, to view the two great Himalayan mountain ranges of Anapurna and Dhaulagri in a cloudless morning on the 8th October 2010. That will remain a great memory and satisfaction to the three of us, on achieving something that is really special in our life.

Places to stay in Kathmandu

The Kathmandu Resort Hotel is

located in the western part of Thamel, an area we have not been before. We were quite surprised to see that this place has much better looking shops and buildings and more tourists. However the small roads are still chaotic and congested with cars, motorbikes, trickshaws and people.

We moved to Vaishali Hotel (photos) today for our final night in Kathmandu. Vaishali is one of the proper hotels here with large lobby and its own yard. However it does need some upgrading to keep pace with other newer and more modern hotels.

The average hotel rate in Kathmandu ranges from US$30 to $60 for double room. Obviously those like Radisson are much more expensive.

In the afternoon we went around to tour the Thamel area again. At one point we came across a mosque, possibly one of the few in Kathmandu. The worship place is quite small but seemed to be well used. I was told there are about 30,000 Muslims in Kathmandu.

Nepalese Cuisines

One of the worry we had before embarking on this trip is what food to eat whilst in Nepal . Fortunately most of the Nepalese diets are vegetarian. So it was quite easy to find food. The foods are quite simple. During trekking, rice and mixed vegetable curry are the standard meals. Other foods are like the Tibetan bread, aloo gobi, pratha, nan and so on.

In Pokhara, there are two vegetarian restaurants located along the main street and they specialise in Indian food. The foods are quite good.

Back to Kathmandu

Admittedly 5 days to cover the same trekking distance was really pushing our strength. But on top of that shortening our trekking from 7 to 5 days has resulted in a logistic nightmare. It resulted in us trying to find places to stay for the additional two nights in Pokhara and Kathmandu right at the peak of the tourist season. At the end after much trolling and trying we managed to get the additional night in the same hotel in Pokhara but a different hotel in Kathmandu.

We set off early for Kathmandu. The drive was quite smooth until we reached the last 20 km. This was where the traffic has to climb and zigzag along the slope of a big hill to get to Kathmandu Valley. With road in poor condition and heavy laden trucks and busses struggling to ascend, combined they resulted in a massive traffic jam. This is probably the lowlight of our whole journey in Nepal. After travelling for 5 hours to be stuck in a traffic jam, in a dusty, hot and at the same time breathing heavily fumed air is not a nice place to be. We finally reached our hotel 7.5 hours after we left Pokhara. What a big relief!

We are staying at Kathmandu Resort Hotel for a night.